Tour du Mont Blanc
This was my introduction into trekking. I stayed at hotels and refuges instead of bivouacked or camped. This was my gentle nudge into the world of trekking. I only carried at most 10 kilograms and the Tour du Mont Blanc is very easy to navigate. I didn’t initially embark on this trip solo. I had one other member in my party.However, due to the physical health of my partner , they had no choice but to abandon at the end of day 3.
Chamonix to Les Houches
“16km, 4 hours and 735 of El. Gain.”
I didn’t initially embark on this trip solo. I had one other member in my party. Because of this member’s physical abilities we decided to take the cable car to Brévent. From there we descended all the way to Les Houches. My partner struggled and we had moved very slowly as a result. However it is hard to not find the beauty in Chamonix when face to face with Mont Blanc. It was a long and slow descent but we eventually reached our accommodation for the night.
Les Houches to Les Contamines-Montjoie
“17.30km, 3hr15m and 993m of El. Gain”
Again we took the cable car as it was easier and I was hoping this would result in an easier day for my partner. However, it was still a long descent from Bellevue to Les Contamines. The views today were mainly easy going forest trail with the occasional river.
Les Contamines-Montjoie to Les Chapieux
20km, 4hr35m and 1400m of El. Gain
For the first 3km we took a navette – shuttle bus further up the valley La Gorge instead of Notre-Dame de la Gorge which caused a few extra minutes of walking. There were a lot of people, it was very crowded and there was a pink church – l’église Notre-Dame de la Gorge. From there it wall gentle uphill with steep pinches all the way to top of the Col du Bonhomme. My partner again struggled but we made it to the top of the first col. After a break we continued to the top of the Col du Croix du Bonhomme. There was a big refuge there so naturally we refilled our water bottles before our descent down into Les Chapieux. My partner lost pretty much all control of their legs on the descent and fell. I was very generously helped by an American family who helped me carry them down the mountain. From Les Chapieux we boarded a shuttle bus headed to Bourg St. Maurice we stayed for the night. This was the last day my partner and I trekked together.
Les Chapieux to Lavachey
26km, 5hr 20m and 1300 of El. Gain
I remember waking up really early between the hours of 5 and 5:30 am as I had to catch the 6:45 shuttle bus to Ville des Glaciers. I was the only person on the shuttle bus. I got off and walked along the road until the Refuge des Mottets from there I finally joined the trail and made my way up the Col de la Seigne. Without my partner I was able to move a lot quicker and motored up the climb. The view from the top of the col was otherworldly as you can see Mont Blanc in all its glory. After descending to the valley floor you seemingly drop down again as you pass Refuigio Elisabetta. The trail was very easy but was difficult was switching form saying “bonjour” to “ciao” as I was now in my second country of Italy. I went to Lac Combal and then ascended to the summit of Alpe Superieur. It was reaching midday and I felt really good. From the top you can clearly see two ridges that run like spines up to the summit of Mont Blanc. The two spines in question being the Arête intégrale du Brouillard and the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey. The final descent of the day to Courmayeur was short but steep not to mention extremely dusty as there up to this point had been no rain for a long time. By the top of the ski station you would think you are in a town centre not on a trail. Like usual the descent felt never-ending but I finally reached the Dolonne and shortly after the Piazzale Monte Bianco. Where I took a shuttle bus to Lavachey and met my partner again for the evening. They had taken the same bus that takes the gear from accommodation to accommodation.
Lavachey to Lavachey
Today I had to take my partner from Lavachey to Chamonix in order to see the doctor and get better. So I took the flix bus through the pin straight Chamonix tunnel and returned the same way to resume trekking the next day.
Lavachey to La Fouly
24km, 5hrs and 1300m of El. Gain
Back on foot. I initially intended to catch the shuttle bus to the head of the valley and then storm the climb into Switzerland. However when i saw the bus go past the bus stop it was at full capacity and didn’t stop for me. I decided that instead of waiting longer and potentially getting another full bus I would walk up the road for a bit and then hike up to the trail at Rifugio Bonatti and from there I would make my way to the Col Ferret. It was peaceful this morning with very few on this stretch of trail at this hour. When I finally reached the base of the Col the masses of people on what must’ve been the previous busses swarmed the slopes. It felt like playing Mario Kart overtaking that many people. I reached the top very quickly. I had actually got the KOM (King of the Mountain – fastest man not woman) time up the Col. As well as a top 3 on the climb up to the Rifugio Bonatti. The views of Grand Combin and Mount Vélan were impressive. I had lunch at a small tarn along the east ridge of the col away from the everybody else. It was scenic. Once I was ready to continue again I made my way down and I was now officially in Switzerland. The descent down to la fouly was gentle and easy. When I reached the valley road i had to walk on I saw a Porsche and that confirmed I was indeed in Switzerland. I reached my accommodation for the night quite early and relaxed for the evening.
La Fouly to Relais d'Arpette
24km, 6hrs and 1700m of El. Gain
Instead of taking the easy mostly downhill and flat road to Champex-Lac I decided that I would go “off-piste” and climb to the Cabane d’Orny. That was the objective of the day. Yesterday’s strava achievements didn’t help today as I was potentially to cocky about my abilities. Nevertheless I set out and was making good time to Praz de Fort. I then turned off the main route and started climbing. I had to climb from about 1100m to 2800 a much bigger feat than the previous’ days stroll in the park. I went out too fast and was suffering early on. I met a party of 4 and they saw me get lost a few times which was embarrassing to say the least. But I carried on and climbed into the non-threatening clouds. After a nice chat with a frenchman I reached the sort of a false summit but before long I finally made it to the Cabane d’Orny and paid 16 Swiss francs for a coke and a brownie. My wallet hasn’t financially recovered ever since. From there I made way down towards Champex and took another variant instead of going to the cable car at La Breya I went over the Col de la Breya which required me to squeeze and crawl through a small hole but it was well worth it. I avoided the crowds and I saw beautiful views of Grand Combin and Mont Vélan. On the other side of the col was a really massive boulder field with massive boulders and it was fun going down. But my shoes grip did decide to fail me on a few occasions. After a while I made it to the the variant going towards the Fenêtre d’Arpette and turned right towards Champex and found my accommodation before too long.
Relais d'Arpette to Trient
14km, 4hr and 1045 of El. Gain
I got sick. The people I shared the dormitory opened the window in the night. While I am not against this my head was by the window and I got cold during the night. So I woke up with a running nose. Which sucked because today was going to be an epic day. I got organised and headed for the Fenêtre d’Arpette back tracking along the trail I walked yesterday for a bit until I entered new trail. The trail wasn’t very steep until the last kilometre or so where the gradient was deadly. Luckily, I left early and had the top all to myself. I had a quick snack and scrambled a way up the side for a good view of the Glacier de Trient. From the top I descended what was the most technical, steep and dusty descent I encountered on the entire TMB.I slipped I think twice and it took forever to make progress. I finally reached the river and from there it was nice and picturesque as I walked through a forest heading for Trient. I reached Trient and had lots of time to eat and relax but more importantly recover and drink neurofen. I drank it straight from the bottle because I didnt realise there was a spoon inside the box. We live and we learn.
Trient to Chamonix
27km, 6 hours and 2500m of El. Gain
This was the final day of my trek. While I was only meant to trek from Trient to Le Tour. The rain that has been gone for 3 weeks was going to come later that day. So I then decided if I wanted to finish this trek and get back to the Brévent I needed to go today before the bad weather rolled in. With that in mind I raced up the Col du Balme and at the time I set the second fastest time up it on strava. The view from the top was the best view of the entire trip. Simply breathtaking. I had a coke and brownie this time it didnt break the bank as I paid in euros. I then set out for Le Tour and after that La Flagère. I knew I was getting closer to Chamonix because there was a significant amount of people everywhere. After climbing for a while I finally made it to the infamous ladder section and from there it was just traversing up and down all the way to La Flagére. I was even trail running in some sections and put my rain jacket on because the weather was turning. The last climb up to the Col du Brévent almost didnt feel real as I dint realise it was the final climb. I only realised when I turned the corner and saw the cable car station. As the climb is a bit convoluted. It was hard to believe that I was here again after 8 days. That ended my trek.