Haute Randonnée Pyrénéenne
From the 24th of July to the 4th of August (2026)
Galway to Lescun
Day 1
The first 2 days of the expedition was to get from Galway to Lescun. It started with a 06:00 bus from Galway Bus Station to Dublin Airport Terminal 2. I had to wake up at 4:30 and I was very tired. The bus as comfortable as it is, isn’t exactly conducive to sleeping. I arrived at Terminal 2 at 08:00 and went about my business getting to my gate. I realised that I could’ve brought my own sunblock as the restrictions on liquids have been softened. Nevertheless, the short flight over to Tarbes-Lourdes Airport was entertaining. I had a window seat and was able to workout the flight route by looking at the French coast below. The heatwave in Europe had been raging and I was treated by 35 degree heat upon arrival. I was the only person to get the bus from the Airport in the direction of Tarbes. In hindsight I don’t blame them. Tarbes isn’t very pretty in my opinion. When I got off the shuttle bus at the train station in Tarbes it dawned on me the difficult task I had ahead. The heat coupled with my 20 kilogram rucksack made for a rough time. I was on shopping duty as I had to get provisions for the trek and then buy gas and soap etc. I collapsed once I got to the Hotel and enjoyed watching the Tour de France. That evening there was thunder and lightning and I wasn’t too hopeful for the next day’s weather.
Day 2 – 12km , 3hrs and 500m of El. Gain
The best thing about Tarbes was leaving it. I mean no offence to the local residents of Tarbes. I went to purchase my tickets on line when I realised the train I had initially planned on getting on was fully sold out. Luckily, I was able to book an earlier train otherwise I would’ve hate wait a long time for the later trains. That said, TGV is a very nice train. It was a double decker with wifi and charging ports. The train was mostly empty and it went through the lowlands going from Tarbes to Lourdes and then to Pau. From Pau I had a 40 minute layover until I got on a regional train to Bedous. Again the train was empty much to my delectation. The sky had been grey most of the morning and as I approached the high mountains I could see dark black clouds. I could only hope that it wouldn’t drench me later. Finally, I arrived at Bedous and began to walk 12 kilometres to Lescun. The road out of Bedous heading for Spain is very straight, pin straight. My shoulders struggled with the weight of my pack and I was having to stop frequently to give them a moment of respite. Finally, turning off the main road felt like a little victory. It was only 4 kilometres to Lescun and unfortunately it was all uphill. 4 hours after leaving Bedous I finally arrived at Camping Luzart, Lescun. A beautiful yet busy campsite. Fortunately, the grey clouds had not rained on me but they did cover and hide the peaks of the Cirque de Lescun. Pitching my tent for the first time and setting up camp wasn’t a seamless experience but it was good to get an idea of how to set up camp properly.
Lescun to Col d'Ayous
Day 3 – 24km, 9 hours and 1800m of El. Gain
This was the first proper day of the trek. It had rained all night long and there was a crying baby in the campsite as a result I didn’t exactly sleep well. The day wasn’t very hot. I had to place my flysheet on the exterior of my tent to help it dry. I picked up the GR10 from Luzart at 09:30 and followed it all the way to Borce (600m). The trail traversed through easy terrain and went over one col the Col de Barrancq (1601m). Along the way, I had a conversation with a German at the top of the col and a Frenchman near Estaut. All the French I learnt at school paid off. It was an absolute joy to converse with a native speaker. At around 14:00 I reached the car park for the Chemin de la Mâture. I had a small lunch at the col and was feeling strong. The Chemin de la Mâture has been on my bucket list since I saw my father’s slides from 30 years prior. After passing the Chemin I started to feel a lot worse. My shoulders started to really give out and I was getting fatigued. The trail from the Chemin to the Parc National des Pyrénées (PNP) felt never-ending. I finally reached the PNP at 17:00 and then looked for a suitable spot to bivouac (wildcamp). I was in a pastoral zone and there was cow manure everywhere. I knew that I just had to keep heading up the valley along the river and a suitable spot would present itself and sure enough it did. At 18:00, a spot free of cow poo next to the river emerged and I wasted no time setting up my tent. I was between 1600 and 1700m and the Col d’Ayous was covered in cloud. I took this as a reminder to get organised quickly.
Col d'Ayous to Refuge de Pombie
Day 4 – 10km, 7hrs and 1154m of El. Gain
The morning was peaceful. No one around me. Nothing but cowbells and the sound of a rushing stream. Was super stoked to see a clear sky. Struggled a bit choosing clothing to wear. But now I have a strategy. Always take off clothes easier than put on. “Breaky” was quick and good. Walked up the valley and very slowly passed two sheepdogs. Met a middle aged to elderly couple just below the col and spoke a bit in French. The husband acknowledged my massive bag. He only had 10 kilos – I wish. When I met them I saw an izard. I then proceeded to the top of the Col d’Ayous. I felt unstoppable. I was graced with a beautiful view of Pic du Midi d’Ossau. Spectacular. I took lots of pics and selfies using various assortments of rocks as a makeshift tripod. When I made it to the lakes I was feeling chuffed. Took the wrong way but it turned out the right way. Then went along the way I thought was right. Climbed a bit and saw these beautiful lakes. I had my first swim in one of them with my lunch. Then went past this massive and very prominent slab of rock next to a Lake. With I think the best view of pic du midi. When I descended I felt good very good like my usual self. But I noticed my feet properly for the first time. Sore some would say broken. Once I reached the valley I was very lost. I knew which way to go but I kept checking the map every few minutes. I finally found the correct turn and it was an accident as well. I saw a path which looked about right since I had been expecting one for some time now. But I was only convinced it was correct when I saw a couple walking down. The path was a very steep gully. That never ended. A ski slope in winter. The gully had these false summits that never seemed to end. Finally it leveled off but I had run out of water and with the clear sky’s and beautiful weather I finally noticed the heat. Continued still without water. These last kilometres very steep. Coupled with boulder fields on going off a tiny piece of saucisson, baguette and cheese wasn’t cutting it. Dehydrated and starving, I genuinely thought of how to quit the best way. When I got to the top. I was soo happy. Finally, I could see Lac de Pombie but seeing and being close is two different things. Finally after the lakes and before pombie. Boom water. There was a few people there but I got what I needed. Relaxed for a long time still harboring my doubts. Then got up and finally reached pombie. Didn’t know what to do exaxtly. I filled up water, drank relaxed and then saw people pitching tents. Tried looking for a warden but failed. Eventually decided to pitch my own tent. But I was just too late. Another guy, youngish as well was also looking but got the better spot before me. I unpacked and moved my tent all over the place until finally I choose some uneven ground with a view. All the even was gone so at least lake views are good. But it was hot. Finally it cooled and I ate food. Menu was the real field meal with soup, hot chocolate and a snickers. The real meal was divine. Relaxed. Spoke to dad. Then decided to not give up but to keep strong and push these next few days. Made couscous and tuna with a bit of burrito bowl flavoring for lunch tomorrow. Cleaned the bowls. Drank dehrydate. Brushed teeth. Organized tent. I’ve lost the plug for one of my canisters. And now time for bed.
Refuge de Pombie to Barranco de Respomuso
Day 5 – 17km, 12hrs 30mins and 1300m of El. Gain
This was a day to remember. At least for the first part. It was the first day I decided to wake up at 06:00. I did the usual breakfast and deconstruction of the bivouac. This was the first day that I acknowledged that something wasn’t right with my feet. They were super sore in the morning almost unbearable and would be that way for the rest of the trek. I also realised that I forgot to put sunblock on the day prior as it was sore when I applied some that morning. The descent from Refuge de Pombie to the Col du Portalet Road / car parking thingy was long. As usual the first bit was flatter above the tree line but once you entered the trees it was slightly steeper. The skies were clear and that meant it was going to be hot. I reached the bottom of the of Col d’Arrious where I had eaten my delectable lunch consisted of Moroccan spice couscous (Dunne’s finest) and tuna with infused garlic. With good weather I decided to traverse the Passage d’Orteig to get to the Refuge d’Arrémoulit. The Lacs d’Arrémoulit glistened and sparkled in the sunlight. However the wind was howling and blowing very fast. I had to take off my cap to avoid it flying away. The approach to the Col du Palas had resulted me in getting lost. The small cairns were extremely misleading. Nevertheless, after very sketchily climbing a snow field and then scrambling I reached the col. More bad news I could not see the way down. Not clearly, I was officially in boulder country and if there was a cairn it blended in with the rest of the boulders and rocks. The descent mentally broke me as I got lost on several occasion and resorted to climbing down a scree gully instead since the intended path was not visible to me. I finally reached the Ibones de Arriel which were gorgeous. The lake was almost blue with a tropical green twist. I didn’t have time to go for a swim so I kept on moving. More like keep getting lost in boulder country. Eventually, I on to the variant that would take me to the Refugio de Respomuso. Where I would hopefully establish a bivouac. The trail was very long to get there and I was struggling. Two spaniards checked in on me and then I reached the Refugio. But upon arrival the Refugio was on a very steep cliff to the dam below. So I kept pushing further along the trail. I knew there would be a good spot along the river somewhere. I hit the jackpot. Where the river became the damn there was a marshland. Next to the river overlooking the marshland and the dam I bivouacked. It was very hot so hot in fact I went for a swim at 20:00. Then the usual dinner, washup and next day scheming. I was broken but I was enjoying myself at bivouac spot. My neck was not exactly pleasant. It was fully red and I had been badly sun burnt.
Barranco de Respomuso to Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube
Day 6 – 22km, 12 hrs and 1638m of El. Gain
The usual 06:00 wake up left me paralysed as I struggled to leave the warmth of my sleeping bag. One breakfast and one burnt pot later I deconstructed camp and then headed out. My feet or should I say toes were absolutely broken in the morning. I didn’t feel good in the morning. I followed a makeshift path to reach the dam where I rejoin the trail. I followed the route to Col de la Fâche. The steep terrain was also dusty and loose making it difficult to move quickly. After passing a small tarn and subsequently the col. The climb to the summit of Grand Fâche welcomed me on the right. Before too long I started the descent. All was good but again I hate descending. Toes and shoulders started feeling the pressure. Upon reaching the Refuge Wallon the day had heated up considerably. After refilling my bladder and setting off again I finally began to appreciate the beauty of the Marcadau valley. The beautiful pine trees littered the ascent. Once I emerged out of the treeline the Lac d’Arratille became visible. While I thought I could see the Col d’Arraatille, it is always hard to know if it is a false col from down below. It got steep, the cairns and paint waymarkers started becoming my friends. At the top of the Col d’Arrtile, she is finally visible for the first time – Vignemale. Many pictures later I left for the traverse into Spain to the back France. Eventually I reached the Col du Mulets. Relaxed, had some water then continued. The descent was relatively easy until it wasn’t. It was incredulously steep but I was rewarded with views of the infamous north face of Vignemale. When I reached the Refuges des Oulettes de Gaube I was pretty broken. After a relaxing evening filled with laughter, endless questions conversations in broken French and English. I learnt that the refuge was closed for 2 years until 4 days ago. How lucky I was to get a bed.
Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube to Refuge de la Brèche
Day 7 – 20km, 12hrs and 1500m of El. Gain
After a routine wake up, breakfast and packing. I booted up and left the refuge. I filled my bladder and then took a selfie with vignemale NF in the back. Pretty awesome! I left at 07:24. However, my feet were destroyed. I will spare you the details. I ascended the climb and it took a while before I reached the Hourquette d’Ossue (2734m) which was the base of Petit Vignemale (3032m). Almost everyone there was going up Petit Vignemale but I had no appetite for that and rightfully so. From the lack of time I had I was in zero position to attempt these summits. Next up was Refuge de Baysellence ~ 2600m. At the refuge the views of the cirque de Gavarnie are now visible. Obviously the Brèche de Roland being the most apparent. The Ossue Valley descent was steep, relentlessly long and busy. There were hordes of people migrating up the valley. There was a grotto or in my words “home in the rock” with a sundial made by Henry Russel – a pioneer in Pyrenean mountaineering. After crossing some snow patches and getting caught up in cow traffic the valley levelled off. Now I was at the Barrage d’Ossue ~ 1800m. A gentle climb to cabane de Lourdes then ensued. The midday heat was beginning to become unbearable and every water river was used as a time to cool off. After slugging along the valley I had inevitably reached the Cabane de Sausse Dessus ~ 1900m. For context, there is no quick and direct route to get from the Ossue Valley to the Refuge de la Brèche. Options included trekking nearly all the way to Gavarnie or going to Bujaruelo. Reaching either of them would entail losing a lot of altitude metres before having to climb up again. With this in mind when I saw a 30 year old map which had a variant that was seemingly very direct and lost the least amount of altitude metres. I took it. Using the old map which I had taken a pic of. I was studied the rock formations and followed an imaginary path where the actual path 30 years ago would’ve been. The path came and went and then came and went again. Sometimes a cairn would greet me – a very welcomed present. The climb consisted of basically straight vertical scrambling up the grassy slopes. When I reached the upper slopes there was scree and lose rock – my worst nightmare. Fortunately, that was over quickly. I reached what I thought was the top. I must’ve been near Pic du Lary. I had beautiful views of both Vignemale and the Cirque du Gavarnie. As I began to set off after a break I was struggling with my sense of direction.The crux of my problem was that I thought the climb was over and yet it wasn’t. I was constantly looking for paths down which of course there were none. I followed cairns and a sliver of a path around the top of this cirque, climbing as I did so. A sense of panic kicked in as I was greeted by my worst enemy – loose rock and scree. With no choice, step after step I made it along. I made sure my step didn’t result in me ending up in the valley and potentially in an expensive helicopter ride. I was starting to see why this variant was no longer on the new map. When I got to the top I found a path going in somewhat the right direction. I finally reached the Lacs d’Espécières. From there I chose a footpath into Spain to finally take my to the Port du Boucharo. When I arrived it was now 18:20. I was worried because I knew I could miss dinner. Dinner at refuges was normally around . The signpost said it would take 1hr 30mins to get to the refuge. After trying to make up time by motoring along the first section. It ultimately resulted in episodical pacing either very fast or very slow. When I reached the Col des Sarradets I didn’t expect water features and climbing through streams. Near the top I was reduced to a snail’s pace. When I finally reached the top. There it was, right there – the refuge. A beautiful sight. It had been 12 hours. I felt a rush of pure ecstasy and then a sense of urgency to try and salvage dinner. After a good dinner filled with vibrant conversation, I savoured and soaked up the views as the limestone basked in the twilight hour.
Refuge de la Brèche to Refuge de la Brèche
Day 8 – 4.6km, 3hrs and 580m of El. Gain
I treated myself to a later breakfast at 07:00 and after took my time to organize myself and my day pack. Left the refuge at 8:30 to go to the Brèche de Roland. The weather as forecasted was partly cloudy with darker clouds rolling in from Spain. I found myself at the Brèche de Roland after crossing some well-trodden snow fields. I tried to take my time as the only thing on the agenda was summiting Le Taillon but when I saw the aforementioned dark clouds lurking ever closer I pressed on. I passed the doigt and eventually reached Taillon. The day pack was so light compared to my usual 20kg rucksack. As well as the less than ideal weather the wind was very strong. It must’ve reached speeds 60kph. The views from Taillon were superb. As usual the Cirque de Gavarnie and a completely unobstructed Vignemale but also the Ordesa Canyon and Monte Perdidio made an appearance. Some while later I descended slowly and comfortably. After a gentle and slow descent I arrived at the refuge before midday. Initially I had planned to summit Monte Perdido and some of the 3000m peaks that tower over Gavarnie but after the last 5 brutal days and really broken feet I chose to take it easy. This idea was reinforced with the murky weather. However, I was so bored at the refuge and the weather cleared by midday so much so I regret not attempting a few summits.
Refuge de la Brèche to Gavarnie
Day 9 – 9km, 3hrs and 1200m of El. Loss
On today’s menu was an easy descent from Refuge des Sarradets to Gavarnie la Bergerie. About 1200m of Dénivelé négatif or elevation loss. It was pure downhill. The weather was very clear and beautiful not to mention really warm. The descent was unbearable. When I finally saw the Hôtel du Cirque et Cascade or the river at the valley floor I felt very nostalgic thinking back to 2024 when I didn’t even want to be there. How things have changed. Seeing the cirque from below was a nice change in scenery. When I started getting ever closer to Gavarnie as per usual the masses starting migrating up the valley. I don’t blame them. Around 11:00 I reached La Bergerie – the campsite I would stay at.
Gavarnie to Gavarnie
Day 10
I spent the day mainly relaxing. I had earned it by this point. Had a late breakfast and just sat in my tent making use of the reception watching videos and relaxing. If I wasn’t in my tent because it got too hot and felt like a slow-cooker I was underneath the sheltered seating area. I bought some rations for the next 2 days and planned how the rest of my trek would unfold. I had spent the first 5 days trekking at the speed of light and now needed to give myself enough time to enjoy the scenery and landscape. So I planned that I would spend a night in the Vallée d’Estaubé, Cirque du Troumouse and then Lacs de Barroude before making my way to the car park at the entrance of the Bielsa Tunnel in Spain. That was the plan.
Gavarnie to Cirque de Troumouse
Day 11 – 23km, 8hours and 1600m of El. Gain
I resorted to my later 07:00 starts instead of 06:00 and took it easy. By the time I was ready on the trail and moving it must’ve been around 10:00. I worked my way up through the tree-line to the Refuge des Espuguettes. I could noticeably tell thatmy pack was lighter as my food supplies were low. Upon reaching the refuge the Cirque de Gavarnie can be seen in all its glory as well as Vignemale. From there I climbed up the dry and grassy slopes to the Hourquette D’Alans where I decided to change my plans. I was tempted to go to the Brèche de Tuquerouye and down into the Pineta valley. But I decided against it as it was too big of a change on low notice. Instead I decided to try and get to the Cirque du Troumouse as it was only the middle of the day and I was above the Cirque d’Estaubé where I had planned to bivouac. The short valley descent was full of guests. I saw plenty of cute and adorable marmots running all over the place. As well as big parties of people heading for the Horquette which honestly surprised me but we were in the Gavarnie region which is basically the Chamonix of the Pyrénées so I am not so gobsmacked. When I reached the Gave d’Estaubé I noticed a change in the weather. The skies above the cirque were looking dark. As I kept walking down and out of the cirque it felt like I was being chased and hunted down by the clouds. Much to my dismay they weren’t fluffy white clouds they were dark grey clouds that were already precipitating higher up. I rushed to put my rain gear on. I continued to walk and decided despite of the weather to head to the Cirque du Troumouse. The rain which I thought would pass decided to stay the night. But it brought its friends thunder and lightning with it. I have never heard thunder so loud. It was roared so loud it sounded like gunshots. The lightning was like a flash bang. I just saw white for a split second. Not to mention I was drenched. I did the only thing I could do which was keep walking. After reconsidering all my life choices and trying desperately to not step in the flash floods running down the slopes I made it to the Cirque du Troumouse. Or at least the road leading up to the welcome/info centre at the top. The rain miraculously stopped and the hailstones that remained seemed like a pseudo snow day. When I finally reached the top of the cirque I waited in the welcome/info centre as it was sheltered. I was waiting for the weather to clear. The last shuttle-tractor driver kicked me out as he had to lock out. As I left the heavens opened again. Now I had to try set up my tent in this torrential weather. I waited for when the rain lightened and rushed desperately to set up my tent. Long story short everything got went. As I went to get water for tonights Masterchef cooking the river I was beside was full of sediment courtesy of the flash flooding. There was nothing worse than getting out of wet clothes to get into slightly less wet clothes inside a wet tent. My only saving grace was that I could play some music to relax.
Cirque de Troumouse to Bielsa Tunnel
Day 12 – 25km, 9hrs and 1600m of El. Gain
Usually after torrential downpours the next mornings are still and quiet. That was exactly the case this morning. the cirque was basking in the morning sun and the inside of the tent was finally dry. Putting on wet socks and even wetter boots was miserable. But I was determined after last nights storm that this would be my last day. I didn’t really want to experience another storm. I set out with a goal of finishing and only two pieces of baguette for lunch. I made good progress and my feet dried by late morning. I reached the lower reaches of the Hourquette de Héas quickly, it even surprised myself. I had by very varied meal of two pieces of bread. Before setting out again to reach finally reach the top of the Horquette de Héas. I met a lovely couple who I think were kiwi. Regardless, It was nice to have a full English conversation. It wasn’t long before I set off once again. I didn’t want to sit around. I reached the Hourquette de Chermentas within an hour and finally got reception where I was able to arrange with my father to collect me at the Bielsa Tunnel Parking as I was a day earlier than planned. I continued along to the Lacs de Barroude but I was slowing down. The lack of a proper lunch meal was starting to manifest itself. The Mur de Barroude was incredible (I am running out adjectives). When I finally reached the Port de Barroude and was back on the Spanish border I followed the ridge / border and made my way to the Port Vieux. I managed to summit the Pic de Port Vieux in getting there. It had great views and a local sheep population. The last descent from Port Vieux to the car park was gruelling. I had severe hunger so much so that my stomach was cramping. You can’t make this up. I somehow managed to push on and reach the car park. Marking the end of my trek.